Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is a series of five villages along a coastline known as the Italian Riviera. They are now encapsulated into a national park. Here is the layout. The blue box down at the bottom is roughly the location of La Spezia:

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We decided that the best approach to visiting five villages in one day would be to go to the farthest one and work our way back. So, early in the morning we were on the train for the 50 minute ride to Monterosso. Even at that early hour, seats were hard to come by:

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It was a pleasant enough ride, though, and soon we found ourselves in this beautiful village by the sea.

Monterosso

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Monterosso is a summer resort, not only for tourists, but also day-trippers and weekenders from Florence and other nearby cities. Of the five villages this is the only one with an extended beach area. It also has the most hotels. It didn’t take long to appreciate the beauty of the place.

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Of course, this time of year it’s a little nippy to be taking advantage of the beach. The first order of business was breakfast.

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It was warm enough to sit outside, so we did. Next to us were four American students who spent the morning arguing about where to go next. Some wanted to go to Venice, others to Florence. And, of course, much of the discussion focused on the cost of going to each location, an expense which increased dramatically due to the fact that they had no plan. But, that’s the joy of being young!

Well, rather than listen to more of that, we had a fine breakfast and then headed to the beach.

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Dianne took the opportunity to dip her finger into the Mediterranean for the first time. That was the extent of our swimming.

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Looking down the coast we could see our next destination, Vernazza.

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Soon we were leaving the fishing boats behind and heading for the train.

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Vernazza

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Vernazza is one quaint and gorgeous little town. It is a simple hike to edge of the sea.

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Of the five villages, only Monterosso was ever a fishing village. The others relied principally on growing olives and grapes. To do that they had to terrace the hillsides. More about that later.

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If you like a hike before breakfast, here’s your spot.

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Here is the lower level

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Even on a relatively calm day, the surf is up.

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Everywhere there is radiant color.

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The Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, built around 1318, oversees the harbor:

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One thing about Italy, love is always in the air, and often on the street:

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Here is a young tourist making a beeline for one of the gift shops:

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And returning, remembering how much room there is in her suitcase:

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Vernazza is a place that deserves more than a visit of a few hours. But, that’s all we had, so on to Corniglia

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Unlike the previous two villages, this one sits on a cliff. To get there you can either hike up that cliff, or, you can wait for a bus to pick you up.

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The bus drops you off at a nice little central piazza:

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But, if you think that by taking the bus, you have avoided hiking, well, not so:

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Everything is up in this place, which means if you look down you get some fabulous views:

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Here is a view of our next stop, Manarola:

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It was time for a lunch break. We found a nice little spot overlooking the valley:

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Below is the terrace where we were seated:

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Farms on the hillside:

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Here is the story of the terraced farms:

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Just a beautiful place to be:

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Equally charming is the village itself:

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Lemons are grown in many places on the coast.

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You never know what else you may find growing here as well:

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Another incredibly beautiful village. But, time to move on:

Manarola

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To get to this town from the train you have to walk through a long tunnel carved into the cliff. When you finally come out, here is what you see:

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The one feature that is outstanding about Manarola, is that there is a walkway that takes you along the cliff face so you can look back over the village:

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Not too hard on the eyes, that’s for sure.

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Time to move on to our last stop.

Riomaggiore:

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You may recall from my last post that we went here the day before. Unfortunately, since it was a spur of the moment decision, I didn’t have my camera with me. Dianne took a few pictures with her phone. I mixed in a couple from Google to give you the lay of the land.

I can tell you that it is much like the other villages, except that it is built on a hill, so the shops and restaurants sit at an angle. It would not be hard for, say, a beer bottle, accidentally knocked off a table to roll several hundred kilometers before it found its way to the sea.

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Cinque Terre, as you have seen, could easily be a destination on its own and you could spend weeks there and not see it all. I would add this caution, though. Last summer Italy was overwhelmed with tourists. Places like Rome and Florence were better able to handle it than islands like Venice, or small towns in the Cinque Terre. Things got so bad that certain of these places,  Cinque Terre included, began restricting the number of people they would let in. All the more reason to go in the shoulder seasons rather than fight the heat and the crowds.

Next up: A Leisurely Drive Through Tuscany.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On The Road

If you looked at the video from my last post you no doubt observed that traffic is a little heavy at times. But what really adds spice to the Italian driving meatball, is mopeds. Regardless of how many lane shifts there might be in any rotary you will find mopeds winding though rows of vehicles with only centimeters to spare. And, they will come at your from both the left and the right. Once you understand that driving is really just a high-stakes video game, then you are ready for the Italian highways.

Our goal was to pick up the A-11 Autostrada heading out of Florence. Autostradas are like our turnpikes. By some miracle, and by following the somewhat shaky blue dot on Google Maps, we suddenly found ourselves at the Autostrada on-ramp. We got our ticket and off we went! We were pleased to find what turned out to be a very well-maintained modern highway. Even better, most drivers behaved themselves quite nicely. The speed limit was around 60 mph, so everybody kept it at about 70, just like here. Occasionally someone would roar up behind us and then tailgate, but our years on I75 have well prepared us for that kind of stuff.

We decided that, since we would be close, we would visit Pisa and check out the tower. It’s about an hour and a half ride to Pisa and, unfortunately there are several exits into the city. A sign with, say, a picture of a leaning tower at any one of those exits would have been helpful. We realized there was not going to be one when we were about 10 miles north of town. So, we turned around, always fun on a turnpike, and found the exit that seemed most likely to get us there. After a considerable number of missed turns and other mishaps, we eventually found a very small sign with the tower and an arrow.

When you need to make a lot of turns in a very small area, the Google Maps blue dot arrives a little late to the party. So, suddenly, and without explanation, we found ourselves driving straight down the center of a designated tourist pedestrian area with diners on either side looking up from their pasta wondering who the hell had authorized that car to be here. And, with an equal degree of curiosity, we were wondering how to get the hell out.

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This is the street where, minutes before, I found myself to be a hazard to pedestrian navigation.

Finally, when all hope seemed to be lost, Dianne spotted a side street, upon which we quickly turned. Even better, within a block someone pulled out of their parking space and left it for us! Even better than that, our little faux pas went entirely unobserved by local law enforcement!. Still, as I pulled into our little space, I wondered for the second time this morning if renting a car was such a good idea.

So we headed down the street, turned a corner, and there it was!

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Now, I have to admit that my expectations were a little low for this visit. I mean, it is an image that has been around since even my childhood, and I remember when it appeared that a few more millimeters of subsidence would bring it down, the government jumped in and ran some kind of steel shaft through it so it would stay put. I was not all that excited.

But, when you actually see it, well, it is impressive. For one thing, it is immaculately clean, the marble is gorgeous, and the building itself is massive.

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You do have to wonder, steel shafts notwithstanding, how it has survived though the centuries.

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True of everywhere we went in Italy, Pisa was packed with visitors. Here, for example, is some dumbass tourist pretending to hold up the tower.

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Uh, wait a minute. I mean some people were clever enough to create the illusion that they were holding the tower up! Yes, Italy brings out the creative genius in us all!

So, after a pleasant visit in Pisa, which, by the way is very beautiful city worth visiting even if the tower falls over, we headed for the coast. Except, we could not find our way back onto the Autostrada. Instead we took a road similar to our state highways for the trip up north. By taking the state route we accidentally ended up going though this town:

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The marble that Michelangelo turned into masterpieces came from here. In fact, Michelangelo himself came here to select marble.

And to this day, it is still being quarried.

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What a great side trip that turned out to be!

Not long after leaving Carrara we found our way back onto the Autostrada and soon we were in La Spezia heading for the Cinque Terre.

In reviewing my recent posts about Florence I see that I neglected to comment on the very fine shopping available in that city. Jewelry, of course, was abundant, along with clothes, shoes, food, and all the other stuff you would expect. We, sadly, had little room in our luggage to bring back much, so I was often in a quandary about what to bring back for my friends. Fortunately, a little gift shop on the Piazza Michelangelo solved the problem:

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